Every knife has two halves: the blade and the handle.
But knifemakers use a few dozen names for the parts in between.
Bolster. Tang. Choil. Ricasso. Jimping. Swedge.
They sound like jargon, but each one changes how a knife cuts, feels and lasts.
We forge knives by hand in our own workshop in Wazirabad, Pakistan.
These are the words we use at the forge every day.
This knife anatomy guide gives you the proper knife parts names, what each one does, and what to look for when you buy one.
Quick answer: the two main parts of a knife are the blade and the handle.
The blade includes the point, tip, edge, belly, spine, swedge, fuller, ricasso and choil.
The handle includes the tang, bolster, guard, scales, pins and pommel (or butt).Folding knives add a pivot, liners, a backspring and usually a lock, such as a lockback or a liner lock.
In this guide:
- Parts of a knife diagram
- Parts of the blade
- Parts of the handle
- What is a bolster on a knife?
- What is a tang? Knife tang types
- Parts of a pocket knife
- Types of knife locks
- Common blade shapes
- See the parts on real knives
- FAQ
Parts of a knife diagram
Here's a knife anatomy diagram with every major part labeled on a full-tang fixed blade.
Not every knife has every part.
A kitchen knife usually has no guard or jimping.
A Japanese-style blade often has no bolster.
But once you know the names, you can read any knife spec sheet.
Parts of the blade
| Part | What it is | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Point | Where the edge and spine meet | Piercing and starting cuts |
| Tip | The front section of the blade around the point | Fine, detailed work |
| Edge | The sharpened cutting line | Does the cutting |
| Belly | The curved part of the edge | Slicing, skinning and rocking cuts |
| Heel | The rear end of the edge, nearest the handle | Power cuts on kitchen knives |
| Spine | The unsharpened back of the blade | Strength, and a place for your thumb |
| Swedge | A bevel ground on the spine near the point | A thinner, sharper-piercing tip |
| Flat | The unground face of the blade | Where makers stamp or etch their mark |
| Grind and bevel | The angled surfaces that thin the blade down to an edge | Decides how easily it cuts |
| Plunge line | Where the grind starts, near the handle | A clean transition from edge to ricasso |
| Fuller | A groove along the flat of the blade | Less weight without losing stiffness |
| Ricasso | A flat, unsharpened section just ahead of the handle | Strength, and a safe place to choke up |
| Choil | A small notch at the back of the edge | Lets you sharpen the whole edge; some fit a finger |
| Jimping | A row of small notches, usually on the spine | Thumb grip and control |
What is jimping on a knife?
Jimping is a row of small grooves cut into the spine, or sometimes the handle.
It gives your thumb or finger something to grip.
That helps with controlled, close work: skinning, carving, whittling.
Good jimping grips without chewing up your thumb.
What is a fuller on a knife?
A fuller is a groove running along the flat of the blade.
It removes steel where the blade doesn't need it, so the knife gets lighter without bending more easily.
People often call it a "blood groove."
That's a myth. It has nothing to do with blood.
It's about weight and stiffness, and it's common on swords and big bowies.
What is a swedge?
A swedge is a bevel ground into the spine near the point.
It thins the tip so the knife pierces more easily.
When the swedge is sharpened, it's called a false edge.
Most are left unsharpened.
Choil vs ricasso
The ricasso is the flat, unsharpened section between the handle and the start of the edge.
It adds strength right where the blade takes the most stress.
The choil is the small notch where the edge ends, at the front of the ricasso.
A sharpening choil lets your stone reach the very end of the edge.
A finger choil is bigger, so you can choke up for fine control.
Parts of the handle
| Part | What it is | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Tang | The part of the blade steel that runs into the handle | The backbone of the knife (see tang types) |
| Bolster | A thick metal piece where the blade meets the handle | Balance, strength and a finish for the handle |
| Guard | A projection that stops your hand sliding onto the edge | Safety under pressure |
| Scales | The two handle slabs fixed to each side of the tang | Grip and looks |
| Pins and rivets | Fasteners through the scales and tang | Hold the handle together; mosaic pins add decoration |
| Spacers | Thin layers between handle materials | Decoration, and a clean joint |
| Pommel or butt | The rear end of the handle | Balance; a capped end takes knocks |
| Lanyard hole or tube | A hole through the butt end | For a cord or wrist strap |
| Finger grooves | Shaped dips along the handle | A more secure grip |
What is a bolster on a knife?
A knife bolster is the thick band of metal where the blade meets the handle.
It's often brass, nickel silver or steel.
A bolster does three jobs:
- Balance: its weight moves the balance point back toward your hand.
- Strength: it reinforces the joint between blade and handle, the most stressed spot on the knife.
- Protection: it seals the front of the handle and can stop your fingers sliding forward.
There are a few kinds:
- Full bolster: runs all the way down to the heel of the edge. Common on German-style kitchen knives. It can make the heel harder to sharpen over time.
- Half (demi) bolster: stops short of the edge, so you can sharpen the full length.
- Integral bolster: forged from the blade steel itself.
- Added bolster: a separate piece of brass or steel fitted to the tang.
- No bolster: common on Japanese-style knives. Lighter, with nothing in the way of the stone.
On a folding knife, the bolsters are the metal caps at each end of the handle.
The front bolster surrounds the pivot.
Bolster vs guard
The bolster is the metal block at the joint.
A knife guard is the part that sticks out to stop your hand.
Some knives combine them: the bolster extends below the handle as a finger guard.
A guard that sticks out on both sides is a crossguard.
Its two arms are called quillons, as on bowies, daggers and swords.
Pommel and butt
The butt is simply the back end of the handle.
A pommel is a separate cap or knob fitted there, often in steel or brass.
On a sword, the pommel is a counterweight that balances the blade.
On a knife, it protects the end of the handle and often carries the lanyard hole.
A karambit's finger ring is a type of pommel too. Our karambit guide explains why it's there.
What is a tang on a knife?
The tang is the part of the blade steel that continues into the handle.
It's the backbone of the knife.
The longer and wider it is, the harder the knife is to break at the handle.
| Tang type | What it is | Strength | Common on |
|---|---|---|---|
| Full tang | Steel runs the full length and width of the handle, with scales on each side | Highest | Hunting, bushcraft and outdoor knives |
| Hidden tang | A narrower tang runs through the handle and is covered by it | High when it runs the full length | Daggers, swords, traditional knives |
| Partial (half) tang | The tang stops partway into the handle | Lower | Light-duty and budget knives |
| Rat-tail tang | A thin rod welded to the blade and threaded into a nut at the butt | Lowest | Cheap, mass-made knives |
| Skeletonized tang | A full tang with holes cut out to save weight | High | Lightweight outdoor knives |
| Tapered tang | A full tang that thins toward the butt | High | Better-balanced custom knives |
Full tang vs partial tang
A full tang knife is stronger under prying, twisting and chopping.
The handle can't work loose from the blade, because the blade is the handle's core.
A partial tang is lighter and cheaper to make.
It's fine for light jobs, but the joint is a weak point under heavy use.
For a hunting or outdoor knife, choose a full tang.
Our guide on how to choose a hunting knife explains why.
How to tell if a knife is full tang
- Look along the top and bottom of the handle. On a full tang, you'll see a strip of steel between the scales.
- Check the specs. A good maker will state the tang type.
- Feel the balance. A full tang usually balances near the bolster or guard, not far out on the blade.
A hidden tang can't be seen from outside.
So with hidden tangs, the maker's specs are all you have to go on.
Parts of a pocket knife
The parts of a folding knife start with the same blade parts as a fixed blade.
The handle is where it gets interesting.
| Part | What it does |
|---|---|
| Pivot | The pin the blade rotates on |
| Nail nick, thumb stud or flipper | Gives you something to open the blade with |
| Liners | Metal plates inside the handle that give it structure |
| Scales | The outer handle material: wood, bone, horn, resin or metal |
| Bolsters | Metal caps at the ends of the handle; the front one surrounds the pivot |
| Backspring | Holds the blade open or closed under tension, or powers the lock |
| Lock | Holds the blade open so it can't fold onto your fingers |
| Lock release | The bar or tab you press to unlock and close the blade |
| Stop pin | Stops the blade at the right place when it opens |
| Washers | Thin discs around the pivot for a smooth action |
| Pocket clip or sheath | How you carry it |
Folders collect lint and grit around the pivot and lock.
Our Knife Care 101 guide shows how to clean and oil a pocket knife.
Types of knife locks
A lock holds a folding blade open, so it can't snap shut on your fingers.
These are the ones you'll see most.
| Lock | How it works | To close it | Good to know |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lockback (back lock) | A rocker arm along the spine hooks into a notch on the blade | Press the release on the back of the handle | Strong, simple, works the same for either hand |
| Liner lock | A springy inner liner moves behind the blade when it opens | Push the liner aside with your thumb | Slim and easy to close with one hand |
| Frame lock | Part of the metal handle frame springs behind the blade | Push the frame aside with your thumb | Very strong for its size; needs a metal handle |
| Slip joint | No lock; a backspring holds the blade by tension | Pull it closed past the spring | Traditional; can close under hard pressure |
| Button lock | A spring-loaded button holds the blade | Press the button | Quick and easy, common on modern folders |
| Crossbar lock | A spring-loaded bar blocks the blade tang | Pull the bar back | Strong and ambidextrous |
What is a lockback knife?
A lockback, or back lock, is one of the oldest and most trusted folding knife locks.
Here's how it works:
- A long rocker arm runs along the back (spine) of the handle.
- When you open the blade, a hook on the front of the rocker drops into a notch on the blade tang.
- A spring holds the hook there, so the blade can't close.
- To close it, press the exposed release on the back of the handle. The hook lifts and the blade folds.
Why people like lockbacks: a solid, positive lockup.
The release sits in the middle of the spine, so it works the same in either hand.
And the mechanism is simple, with few parts to wear.
The catch: most need two hands to close.
Keep your fingers out of the blade's path as it folds.
Our engraved Damascus lockback is a classic example.
A 3.5-inch drop point, red wood scales, a natural horn back and polished brass bolsters.
Liner lock
Inside the handle, one of the two liners is bent slightly inward.
When the blade opens, that liner springs across behind the blade tang and holds it.
To close, push the liner back toward the scale with your thumb.
Liner locks are slim, light and easy to close with one hand.
Their strength depends on the liner's thickness and how well the lock is fitted.
Our Damascus folding knife with checkered wood uses a liner lock, with a clip point blade and a solid brass bolster.
Frame lock
A frame lock works like a liner lock.
But instead of a thin liner, a section of the metal handle frame itself does the locking.
That makes it thicker, and generally stronger for its size.
Slip joint
A slip joint isn't really a lock.
A strong backspring holds the blade open by tension, often with a "half-stop" partway through.
It's the classic design of traditional pocket knives.
Just remember that hard pressure on the spine can close it.
Lockback vs liner lock: which is better?
Both are good when they're well made.
Choose a lockback if you want a strong, simple lock that works the same for both hands.
Choose a liner lock if you want a slimmer knife you can close with one hand.
One more thing: some places limit carrying locking knives in public.
Check your local law before you carry one.
Common blade shapes
| Shape | What it looks like | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Drop point | Spine curves down to a strong, lowered point | Hunting, skinning, all-round use |
| Clip point | The spine is "clipped" to a thin, sharp point | Piercing and detail work; classic bowie shape |
| Spear point | A symmetrical point centered on the blade | Piercing; daggers and athames |
| Tanto | An angular, reinforced point | Hard piercing and scraping |
| Sheepsfoot and Wharncliffe | A straight edge with the spine curving down to meet it | Controlled cuts with little risk from the point |
| Trailing point | The point sweeps up above the spine line | Long slicing and skinning cuts |
| Karambit (hawkbill) | A claw-shaped curved blade | Pulling cuts on rope, cord and plants |
For deer, a drop point is the favorite. See our guide to the best knife for skinning deer.
See the parts on real knives
Every knife below is hand-forged by our own smiths in Wazirabad.
Each is inspected and shipped from our fulfillment center in New Caney, Texas.
Fuller, crossguard and pommel
Our 18-inch D2 bowie shows a lot of anatomy in one knife.
A 12-inch clip point blade with a slotted fuller.
A dual-quillon brass crossguard, a full tang, and a brass pommel with a lanyard hole.
Bolster, mosaic pin and full tang
Our Damascus skinner has a polished brass bolster, a full tang and a natural bone handle with a mosaic pin.
The blade is a 3.2-inch drop point.
Jimping, pommel and lanyard hole
Our 9-inch Damascus scout knife has spine jimping for your thumb.
It also has a full tang, a mosaic center pin and an exposed steel pommel with a lanyard hole.
Most of our fixed blades, including our skinners, karambits and bowies, are full tang.
Browse hunting and bushcraft knives, folding and pocket knives or karambits.
Want to choose every part yourself?
We take custom orders from $100, and custom swords from $150.
Tell us the blade shape, length, handle and fittings you want. There are no size limits.
We settle the steel with you before you pay.
Builds take 15–30 days including making and shipping, with progress photos from the forge.
Knife anatomy FAQ
What are the main parts of a knife?
The blade and the handle.
The blade has the point, edge, belly, spine and ricasso.
The handle has the tang, bolster or guard, scales, pins and pommel.
What is the bolster on a knife for?
It balances the knife, strengthens the joint between blade and handle, and protects the front of the handle.
Some bolsters also work as a finger guard.
What's the difference between a bolster and a guard?
A bolster is the thick metal block at the blade-to-handle joint.
A guard is a projection that stops your hand sliding onto the edge.
Some knives combine the two.
What is a tang on a knife?
The part of the blade steel that runs into the handle.
A full tang runs the whole length and width of the handle.
Is a full tang knife better?
For hard use, yes. It's stronger and won't work loose.
A partial tang is lighter and fine for light jobs.
What is jimping on a knife?
A row of small notches, usually on the spine, that gives your thumb grip for controlled cuts.
Is a fuller a blood groove?
No. That name is a myth.
A fuller lightens the blade while keeping it stiff.
What is a choil?
A small notch where the edge ends near the handle.
It lets you sharpen the full edge, and a larger finger choil lets you choke up.
What is a lockback knife?
A folding knife with a rocker arm along the spine that hooks into a notch on the blade.
Press the release on the back of the handle to close it.
Which is stronger, a lockback or a liner lock?
A well-made lockback is generally stronger than a liner lock of the same size.
A liner lock is easier to close with one hand.
What is the end of a knife handle called?
The butt. A separate cap fitted there is called a pommel.
What is the back of a knife blade called?
The spine. It's the unsharpened top edge, opposite the cutting edge.
The bottom line
A knife is more than a blade and a handle.
The tang decides how strong it is.
The bolster and guard decide how safe and balanced it feels.
And on a folder, the lock decides how much you can trust it.
Know the parts, and you'll know exactly what you're buying.
Questions about any of our knives?
Email us at thelavishblade@gmail.com.
We aim to reply within one business day.